At last Aris Theoderopoulos has got it together to write this area up and also give the locals a push to start bolting so plenty of new stuff here, and of course Josef Gstoettenmayr couldn´t be left out so another thirteen new routes from him as well! Info and photos courtesy of Aris Theoderopoulos, corrected by myself. I hope the route names are right!
It is reported that:-
Climbing in this area is currently banned by the City of Naplion.
Another year has gone by and once again Joseph and Aris amongst others have been busy with another 30 to 40 routes here!
Info courtesy of Aris Theodoropoulos and Joseph Gstoettenmayr.
THE BEST WINTERTIME SPORT CLIMBING IN GREECE
Nafplion, the view of Akronaflia hill as seen from the Palamidi castle and the city on the right. On the left you
can see Arvanitia beach and Orestis”, “Pagkaki”, and “Apsida” sectors.
Naflion is a superb old city and is a popular destination for a rest day, even for climbers. The city offers
many attractive old streets and buildings, cafes, restaurants and bars. One of the main points of interest is
the Venetian fortress dominating the city, the best preserved of its type in the world. While displaying
almost no "Greekishness” the city has played an important role in the history of Greece, being the capital
for five years before it was moved to Athens.
The main square called platia Syntagma (Constitution). The streets approaching it are well lit, closed to
automobile traffic and filled with people casually strolling, looking at the jewelry shops, bakeries, tourist
shops and the many bars and restaurants.
How to get there:
Naflion is 148 km from Athens. From the Patras motorway take the direction
for Tripoli and turn left at the junction to Argos to Naplion.
Rocks and climbing
The development here has been sporadic; most of the routes were put up
for climbing demonstrations or for the use by climbing schools. There are
currently only a few climbers in the area but we hope that with some
encouragement the climbing scene here will take off. At 2004 this started
and some great sectors such as NERAKI appeared.
The rock is excellent quality limestone, a bit sharp, and the pitches are equipped with bolts. Almost all the
routes are sport climbs, most of them one pitch length. Indeed, apart from the quality, there is also the
vast amount of rock available. There are several equally good cliffs completelyuntouched that are awaiting their first
ACRONAFLIA AREA (ARVANITIA
Access: Park at the car parking of Arvanitia beach. (Down and behind the Xenia hotel). Walk on the paved
pedestrian zone - to the right while facingthe sea. At the about 100m long you meetSector “Orestis”, just 10m after is“Pagkaki”, then before the rock arch youwill find “Apsida”, and down of the smallchurch of Panagitsa, just before the small pharos (lighthouse).If you walk on the other side, following thepedestrian dirt road again parallel to sea,after 12-13min and while youpassed a lotof superb undeveloped steep cliffs you will meet first the unnamed route of JimTitt on a sharp-grey slab at the point that the road is very close to the sea.
Then you will pass the small cape and you will see the great “Neraki” sector.
Continue walking from “Apsida”. The routes are down of the small church of
Panagitsa. Total 5-10 min from the car-parking.
Orientation: South, on the shade only early morning.
Note that these routes due for rebolting because of old and rusted bolts.
PHOTO: Climbing Apsida» 5c+ above the pedestrian zone.
1. Slab of Panagitsa 5b *(Eliakis- Dimopoulos)
2. Peratzada 5b * (Theodoropoulos)
3. Corner of Panagitsa 5a ** * (Eliakis- Dimopoulos)
4. Glimeno diedro (clean corner) 5c+, ** (Theodoropoulos)
5. Aigisthos 6b** (Theodoropoulos - Skevofylakas)
6. Unfinished project
If you still walk in the same direction, you will see the rock arch. Total 5-6 min from the car-parking
Orientation: South-east, on the shade in the afternoon
2 New hard projects just left of Tonsai.
1) Tonsai 7b 15m ****
2) La Sinistra 6b 20m
3) Herz Dame 6a 20m
4) Herz Bube 6a+ 20m
5) Premiere 6b 22m **
6) Evi 6b 22m ***
7) Exhaustion 6b+ 22m ***
8) Apsida 5c+ 20m ***
9) Apsida direct 6b 20m*
10) Dickes Ende 6c 17m*
11) Big Foot 6a 17m+
12) Footwork 6a+ 16m
13) The 3 Dutch- 6b 20m
14) Creation 1 – 6a 20m
15) Blitz (ÁóôñáðÞ) – 6b
16) Climbing is easy – 5c+
17) Sunnseitn (Sunnyside-ðñïóÞëéï) 6a
18) Ari’s invitation -5c
New sector between Apsida and Pagkaki. Equipped at September 2005 and September 2006, by Josef
Gstoettenmayr (Austria) with the help of local climbers, especially Aris Georgopoulos.
1) For Agnes 5b+ 15m
2) Sorry Mr Cactus 5b 17m
3) Be happy 6b 17m ***
4) Don’t worry 5c+ 25m **
5) No Fear 6a 25m ***
6) Octopussy- 6c 22m ****
7) For me and for you- 6b+ 22m
8) Lust auf Mehr – 6c 27m
9) Just for fun – 6b 27m **
10) Old gun – 6b 20m
11) Bye, Bye- 6b 20m **
12) Look at me – 6a 27 m ***
Sector Park bench (Pagkaki)
1) Pelopas - 6a+ 20m ***
2) Greek Kamaki - 7b 20m ****
3) Amaryllis- 7a+ 20m ***
4) - Vicky 6b+ 30m *** (expo)
Photo below: Climbing the short but powerful
On the romantic pedestrian zone, 100m long from the Arvanitia beach parking look for the red steep rock.
Total 5 min from the car-parking
First ascents by L. Gianakoulis H. Mpelogiannis & A. Theodoropoulos)
Last years these routes were very slippery due bird nests and soil. Note that also these 3 routes are due for
rebolting because of old and rusted bolts.
Orientation: Southeast, in the shade in the afternoon.
29. «Klitaimnistra» 7a+/7b
30. «Electra» 6c
31. «Orestia» 6b
(100m before Neraki)
1. Unnamed -25m 6a+ (from Jim Tiit-2003)
Photo: Thomas Michaelidis climbing “me
stelneis” (You send me) 6c at Neraki sector.
The main cliff of Nafplio area, and a superb
venue itself! A small bay lying halfway between
Karathona Bay and Naplion. Steep overhanging
orange color cliff with big pockets and holes.
First ascents of Ape by Jim Titt and Inge Zaczek.
Most of the others by Aris Theodoropoulos with
the help of the local climbers, especially Thanos
Orientation: South. Good for sunny days of
winter. Don’t go when is sunny and temperature
is over 20 Celsius.
Access: Park at the Arvanitia beach and follow
the coast pedestrian zone on the left for about
15 min walk. You will come to a small bay and
then an obvious 50m red-orange rock wall.
Alternatively park at the barrier at the N end of Karathona Bay ,also 15 min walk.
Photo;Pontiki 6b+, Neraki
1. Grouvalos - 7a 20m *
2. Ponas ore? – 7a+ 20m
3. Me stelneis - 6c 20m ***
4. Tsounami - 7a 20m ***
5. Thailand - ? 25m (project)
6. Mr. Snape - 6b 20m ***
7. Mr. Snape extension - 6c+ 33m ***60m rope is just OK!
8. Kolokotronis - 6a+ 20m ***,
9. Super Kolokotronis - 7b(+) 30m ***(extension of Kolokotronis)
10. Rosida (Russian lady) - 7b 30m ***
11. Pontiki - 6b+20m ***
12. Arouris - 7c+? 30m ** (extension ofPontiki)
13. Anoixi (spring)- 5c+ 18m ***
14. Kathreptis (Mirror) - 8a? 30m (project)
15. Chimp 15m 6a+ (Variation to Ape,starts from the left)
16. Ape 15m 6a+ *** (by Jim Titt and IngeZaczek)
17. Orangutan– 30m 6b ** (extension ofChimp)
18. Rosso - 6c+ 25m ***
19. Espresso –7a 25m ***(Variation ofRosso )
20. Kastoras - 6b 17m ***
21. Dirty dog (ex. Lemur) - 6a 17m **
22. Laoura - 5c 17m *.
23. Super Laura - 6b 33m (Extension ofLaura)
24. Glyka - 5b+ 17m *
25. Tzoutzouka - 4c 17m *
26. Babylino 5b 10m
27. Calliope 6a 15ì
Climbing “Anoixi” (Spring) 5c+
New sector, just right of Neraki. Bolted by
Josef Gstoettenmayr at September 2006.
1. Ouranos 6c
2. Free project (7a?)
3. Gi 6c
4. Oros 6a+
5. Pelagos 6a+
6. Pontos) 6b
7. Oceanos ) 6b
8. Kronos 5c
A bay lying just south of Naplion, long beach, beach bars and a taverna. A popular bathing destination.
Originally planned as a holiday resort but the development has been halted.
Take the road leading up to the castle (Palamidi) signed in the centre of the town. Instead of turning of to
the right to the castle continue along the road to the bay. At the moment there are two cliffs climbed on.
Sector Anatoli (East)
Anatoli lies to the east. As you descend into the bay take the first road right 200m to the cliff.
This cliff has potential for about 20 routes total. First ascent : Aris Theodoropoulos, Filipos Athanasiou
Dimitris Mauropoulos and Antonis Antonopoulos.
Orientation: east, in the shade after 14.00
1) Alkmini 5c (toprope for the
2) Antonis 6a *** (A. Antonopoulos)
3) Amfitrion 5c ** (plus 10m
uninteresting 4c) (Theodoropoulos
– Athanasiou – Mavropoulos))
4) Unfinished project? (A.
The second cliff (Katakrimeni) is at the
small chapel about 2/3 around the bay.
Take the cement road left to a parking
place. 2min walk.
First ascents of Halycon days and Easy
corner by Jim Titt and Inge Zaczek. Most
of the others by Aris Theodoropoulos,
Danae Acgiropoulou, Tasos Petrochilos
Dimitri Stathakos and Angela Papadimitropoulou.
1. Hercules 6a+ **(rebolted and cleaned 4/2004)
2. Tasos (corner) 25ì 5c+ ** (rebolted 4/2004)
3. Shismi 5c ** (A. Antonopoulos)
4. Gallida (woman from France) 25ì 7c? *** (re-bolted 4/2004)
Left Hand Sector
5. Halcyon days 5a *
6. Easy corner 4b **
7. Iokaste 15ì 4b ** (bolted 4/2004)
8. Ismine 15ì 5a+ ** (bolted 4/2004)
9. Ramon 15ì 5b ** (bolted 4/2004)
10. Elpinor 20ì 5c ***
11. Kihle 20ì 5b **
12. Antigone 20ì 6a**
13. Octana 20ì 6b**
13a.Adm 2005 6c+
14. Agamenon 25ì 6a+ ***
15. Tirintha 20ì 5b+ **